![]() ![]() It is also defined by the extension of the pinky finger and is one of the two ways by which a person might full crimp. This hand position is defined by the thumb meeting the pointer finger at the thumb’s most extended point of articulation. One must have strong tendons and efficient balance to rest from a three-finger drag.Ī post shared by jacquie des rosiers Full-crimp Version 1: Pinky Extended The three-finger drag is a grip from which to hang while the four-finger open-hand is a grip from which to rest or even pull. Three-finger drag is almost always best when the climber is directly underneath the hold, while the four-finger openhand can easily access gastons or side pulls. It offers much of the same benefits as the three-finger drag, but with modestly more power. It also reduces the difficulty of reeling holds into a half or full-crimp position. To that effect, the addition of the pinky makes aiming between holds significantly easier. The extension of the pointer and the pinky allow for the relatively efficient use of the flexor muscles while half crimp position of the middle two fingers bring the palm a bit closer to the wall and allows for more controlled power generation. ![]() The position is defined extended pointer and pinky fingers while the middle two fingers rest in the half-crimped position. The four-fingers open-hand position is an excellent compromise between efficiency and power. With that said, this is most climbers’ weakest position and requires training to perfect. It allows for imprecision and requires very little energy. This is due to the similar length of the front three fingers. It is useful because holds are often caught in this hand position before being reeled into a four-finger position. The three-finger drag is efficient because it effectively relies on the tensile strength of your finger tendons. When we speak of efficiency in the context of the fingers, we are talking in reference to the relative engagement of the flexor muscles. In closing the fingers, the muscle will contract. You can feel them move by pressing your thumb into the base of the anterior side of your forearm. The Flexor muscles are those involved in closing the hand upon a grip. This position is the most efficient grip position in terms of the flexor muscles of the forearm. The middle finger, due to its additional length, tends to be slightly more articulated than the pointer and the ring. This is the grip position defined by the extension of the pointer, middle and ring fingers. ![]() Why are there so many grip positions? What are they? The Three-Finger Drag With all of the possible finger positions, it can be difficult to discern which is best used when and why an athlete might choose one over another. Whether you are hangboarding, sport climbing, board climbing or bouldering, the way that you grip a hold says a lot about your climbing. ![]()
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